Cartagena Flag   Seal     Country Colombia Department Bolívar Founded 1533 Size 220 sq mi Elevation 3 feet Population 1,239,430
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The Fortress City

In 1984, the Port, Fortresses and Monuments, including the old town of Cartagena were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mystified in romance, legends and beautiful colonial era antiquity, this city captivates visitors and travelers with its cobbled alleys, enormous balconies draped in bougainvillea and horse-drawn carriages. The backdrop to movies such as "Romancing the Stone" and more recently the film adaptation of "Love in the Time of Cholera" by Nobel Prize winning Colombian novelist Gabriel García Márquez, Cartagena has a long history of fairy-tale mystique. Capital of the department (state) of Bolívar, Cartagena is currently the fifth largest urban area in Colombia. During the colonial period, Cartagena was the most important bastion of the Spanish overseas empire and influenced much of Colombia's history.

One of the most beautiful cities in Colombia, with over a million inhabitants living right on the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena de Indias, or simply, Cartagena, was named after the famous Spanish City of Cartagena which, in turn, takes its name from Carthage, the great merchant city that once rivaled Rome itself. Carthage, the exalted city of antiquity, was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th Century BC in North Africa, in what is Tunisia today. The conquistadors had a tradition of naming a new colony for one of the cities that had sponsored their expedition, in order to honor their patrons. Thus, the names of the great monarchs of the time appear again and again in the names of locations in the New World, since they were the ones to finance most of the voyages. Louisiana, for example, was named after King Louis XIV.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cartagena was built on several islands located at the end of a bay on the Atlantic coast of Colombia, not far from the majestic Río Magdalena. The marshes that originally surrounded these islands were later filled, in order to link the land to the coast. The city, nestled in the bay, extends onto an L-shaped peninsula called Bocagrande. At the end of this stretch of land are two large islands that appear to be guarding the mouth of the bay: located at the entrance to the bay is Isla Tierrabomba, a natural one, while Isla Barú was created when the Canal Del Dique was dug. This gigantic waterway is 114 kilometers long, and was completed during the colonial era with the aim of linking the Río Magdalena to the sea. The Barú peninsula was thereby cut off from the mainland and transformed into an island. This was one of the largest enterprises of its kind ever to have been carried out in the Spanish colonies, and is used by many boats to this day.

The Del Rosario archipelago lies off the western extremity of Isla Barú. Made up of a multitude of little islands, it has lovely white sand beaches and magnificent coral. Fans of marine life claim that this is one of the most beautiful places on the Colombian coast.

Just south of the downtown area is another island, known as La Manga, which is a residential area for well-off Cartageneros. Several ridges provide access to and from the island, and one of these leads directly to the old city. A number of lagoons separate the suburban areas from the old city, whose centre is surrounded by magnificent ramparts. The only elevated points on the horizon are the Castillo San Felipede Barajas at the gates of the city, and the Convento de la Popa facing the island of La Manga from its perch atop a 100-metre-high hill.

Thus admirably protected, Cartagena has managed to preserve its military buildings, as well as its lovely upper-class homes and colonial churches. Today, it is one of the finest examples of colonial architecture in all of South America and continues to draw more and more tourists as the rest of the world continues to discover Colombia.

A Brief History of Cartagena

Pre 20th Century

Founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena de Indias was built on the site of an abandoned Amerindian village, known as Calamarí, located on a small island of the same name. Born into a noble family in Madrid, Heredia left Spain suddenly because of a personal conflict that led to a challenge by duel. Arriving first in Santo Domingo (capital of the present-day Dominican Republic), he later embarked to New Grenada, settling in Santa Marta, where he took up trading with the native inhabitants. After becoming governor, he established himself in the village of Calamarí and founded Cartagena. The little village quickly prospered, with the discovery of numerous treasures in the region, including those in the tombs of the Sinús, an Amerindian people who customarily buried the dead with all their possessions. However, in 1552, a fire reduced the village (whose buildings were made of wood at the time) to ashes, and Pedro de Heredia ordered that all structures be made of stone from that point onward. In a way, this directive enabled the city to preserve its lovely architectural heritage to this present day.

As the Spanish continued colonizing South America, they discovered and pillaged the fabulous riches of various Amerindian nations including the Incas. The port of Cartagena, well protected in a bay, benefited greatly from all of this plundering. Ships loaded with precious cargo arrived from Ecuador and Peru by way of the isthmus of Panama, and stopped at the city's port to be loaded with other goods from the interior of the country, most of which were brought to the port on the Río Magdalena. Afterward, the ships would continue on their way to Cuba or Puerto Rico, where other merchandise was added to their precious cargo. Finally, fully loaded, they would sail to Spain, the mother country.

Another factor that enabled the city to develop rapidly was the slave trade. In fact, at the beginning of the 17th century, the King of Spain granted the colony a monopoly on this form of commerce. It is important to remember that at the time, the Spanish crown had forbidden the enslavement of Amerindians, but granted certain markets and key figures in its new colonies the right to deal in African slaves. Cartagena thus received the dreadful but highly coveted right to be an official slave-trading centre. At the time, Veracruz, Mexico was the only other centre of this kind.

All of these activities made it possible for prominent locals to amass enormous fortunes and build superb homes and mansions, which still accounts for some of the towns charm today. Thus, within a few years, Cartagena reached a level of prosperity that aroused the interest not only of other colonial powers, but also of the numerous pirates lurking in the Caribbean in search of riches.

Cartagena's reputation as a flourishing city spread quickly, and the Jolly Mary (the black pirate flag with a skull and cross bones) was often seen approaching the city in search of booty. During the 16th century, Cartagena suffered five sieges by pirates. One of these occurred in 1543 and involved a French lieutenant general and pirate by the name of Robert Baal (aka Roberval). He launched a successful raid on the city and in a surprise attack, the pirate managed to extort 310 kilos of gold from the city while the governor was attending a banquet. This was only the beginning of a long list of attacks by pirates of all different nationalities on the city. They included Englishmen John Hawkins (in 1576) and Francis Drake (in 1586), as well as Frenchmen Jean-Bernard Desjeans and Jean Ducasse (in 1697).

Cartagena managed to fend off at least one attack, mounted by the admiral Edward Vernon sent by King George II of England, along with 15,000 troops, to overthrow the Spanish in 1741. However, the English attackers were in for a surprise since the small garrison, led by General Basco de Lezo, managed to drive them back to sea. This brave general continued to fight even after losing an arm, a leg and an eye in previous battles. With 2500 poorly trained men, General Basco de Lezo managed to fend off 25,000 English soldiers and their 186 ships. He lost his other leg and died soon after, but is now regarded as the savior of Cartagena.

Irritated by the loss of capital to the privateers, the Spanish crown finally decided to fortify the city and its surrounding area. The scale of the project soon converted Cartagena into one of the most well protected colonial cities in all of South America.

Among the numerous armed conflicts that have marked the city's history, two major dates should be kept in mind. The first is 1741, the year of the famous Battle of Vernon and the second is 1811, when the city was the first to declare its independence from Spain. However, the city came back under Spanish rule in 1815 upon being recaptured by General Pablo Morillo. More than a third of the population perished in the fighting for a total of 6,000 people! Later, during the final war of independence led by Simón Bolívar, Cartagena was once again among the first to declare its independence and obtained its liberty once and for all in 1821. Moreover, Bolívar nicknamed the city Ciudad Heroica (the Heroic City) for its bravery and ability to defend itself.

Cartagena soon recovered and became an important trading and shipping centre again. Its prosperity attracted foreign immigrants, and many Jews, Italians, French, Turks, Lebanese and Syrians settled here.

Modern History

Colombia entered the 20th century wracked by full-scale civil war, then again in 1948 when the struggle between Liberals and Conservatives broke out with La Violencia, a destructive period of civil strife. Cartagena was not immune from the political violence but economically it prospered, largely on the back of oil exports from its increasingly busy port. Platinum, coffee, sugar, tobacco and textiles were also important exports at the time. In 1974, Cartagena celebrated its pre-colonial past, erecting the Monumento a la India Catalina at the entrance to the Old Town in tribute to the Carib Indians.

Cartagena Today

In recent decades, Cartagena has expanded dramatically and is now surrounded by vast suburbs and high-rise buildings. It is Colombia's largest port and an important industrial center specializing in petrochemicals. Despite increasing urban sprawl, the walled Old Town has remained virtually unchanged.

In August 2000, USA President Bill Clinton visited Cartagena for talks associated with his government's 1.3 billion-dollar Plan Colombia aid package to help tackle drug trafficking and armed conflict.

Cartagena's calendar is packed with festivals -the biggest bash is the Carnaval de Cartagena, which culminates with the Miss Colombia beauty pageant on November 11 - one of the biggest cultural events in the country! Cartagena also hosted the 2006 Central American and Caribbean Games, finishing fourth of the overall medal count.

Today the city hosts numerous annual intellectual and cultural events. The town is painted with beautiful colonial restored homes among exotic, highly attractive and dynamic plazas, waterfronts and other public spaces. The city plays host to many conventions but the two of major interest to Europeans and North Americans are without doubt the classical Music Festival held during the first two weeks of January and the South American version of the (UK) Hay Literary Festival at the end of January. Both are particularly imaginative with world class performers, writers and critics. Please click the 'Events' link here or above in the DC Travel Guide for an up to date list of everything going on in Cartagena!

The city was one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas and is currently populated by an ethnic mix representative of Colombia's own mestizo inhabitants. This is one of the richest aspects of Cartagena today and adds to the amazing ambiance of the city.

Cartagena's bayside location has also seen huge tourist development in recent years. Located on Colombia's northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, it is the most visited city in the country by local and international tourists. It gets extremely crowded during December holidays as well as the holy week in March (Semana Santa / Easter), when schools are out and most Colombians take their vacations. The city has basically two main sectors where tourists gather: the walled colonial city ("Ciudad Amurallada"), which is truly amazing and has many upscale restaurants, clubs and hotels; and a long strip of hotel towers and condos fronting onto the beach, known as Bocagrande.

 

North Cartagena - In this area you will find the Rafael Nunez International Airport, in the neighborhood of Crespo, only ten minutes away from downtown or the old part of the city and fifteen minutes away from the modern area. It must be said that this large area is that with the greatest long-term urban development. Here you will find the majestic Coralia Americas Hotel, and several educational institutions.

If you decide you'd like to relive the history of Cartagena, go to the Ciudad Amurallada (Walled City), also called "Centro Historico" and "Corralito de Piedra", where you will find four sectors, each one with a peculiar story to tell: San Diego, La Matuna, Getsemani and Santo Domingo.

Downtown - Downtown (Centro) is undoubtedly the heart of the city and the most evident testimony of its history. It has a varied architecture, mainly of a colonial style, but there are also republican and Italian style buildings, such as the Cathedral's bell tower.

The official entrance to downtown is through Puerta del Reloj (Clock Portal), which comes out onto Plaza de los Coches (Carriages Square). A few steps from there you will find Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square), next to the mayor's office. Located nearby is Plaza San Pedro Claver, and his namesake's church, as well as the Museum of Modern Art.

Further on, you will find Plaza de Bolívar (Bolívar's Square) and the Palace of the Inquisition to one side. If you are interested in knowing more about Cartagena's history, you can do in-depth research in the office of the Historical Archive. Next to the archives you'll find Government Palace, where the Governor of the Department works. Across from the palace you'll see Cartagena's Cathedral, which dates back to the 16th century.

There is another religious temple that you should take time to admire: The newly restored Santo Domingo Church, in front of Plaza Santo Domingo (Santo Domingo Square). The square was recently decorated with the sculpture Mujer Reclinada (Reclining Woman), a gift from the renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero.

You should not forget to visit Teatro Heredia (Heredia Theater), an architectural jewel located in front of Plaza de la Merced. A few meters from here you'll find Calle de la Factoria; on it is the Marquis of Valdehoyos House, where the Historical Photographic Library is housed.

A little bit further on is Augustinian Fathers Convent, where the University of Cartagena operates. This university is a higher education center, opened to the public more than 120 years ago. Don't forget to visit Claustro de Santa Teresa (Saint Theresa Cloister), which has been remodeled into a hotel, operated by Charleston Hotels, an upscale Colombian hotel chain. It has its own square, protected by the San Francisco Bastion.

San Diego - It was named after San Diego Convent, nowadays the Beaux Arts School Building. In front of it you will find Convent of the Nuns of the Order of Saint Claire, now the beautiful Hotel Santa Clara. In the surrounding area you will find Santo Toribio Church, the last church built in the walled city, and next to it, Fernandez de Madrid Square, in honor of Cartagena's hero Jose Fernandez de Madrid, whose statue can be seen here.

Inside the Old City, you have to go to Las Bovedas (The Vaults), a construction attached to the walls in the Santa Catalina Bastion. From the top of this construction you will be able to view the beautiful Caribbean Sea.

The Matuna - The Matuna is the commercial and financial area par excellence in the city. Here you can also find affordable hotels, like Saint Philip Hotel, and affordable restaurants with good service.

Getsemani Neighborhood - This is one of the most representative neighborhoods in Cartagena. African people who were brought as slaves used to live here. Parque Centenario (Centennary Park) is the most prominent place in this area; built in 1911, it commemorates a century of independence. In this very same area you will find Cartagena's Convention Center, Third Order Church and San Francisco Cloister. You will also see San Roque of the Trinity churches, in the square with the same name. Note that the entirety of the Old City has the same architectural styles as the area surrounded by the walls.

Bocagrande - Bocagrande is the most modern area of the city, with many upscale hotels and restaurants. It forms part of a land extension delimited by Cartagena Bay to the east and the Caribbean Sea to the west, where you will find El Laguito (The Little Lake) and Castillogrande (Big Castle), two renowned neighborhoods. Its particular appeal is the beaches and nightlife. All over Avenida San Martin (Saint Martin Avenue), which is the backbone of the area, you will find many business centers, restaurant venues and hoteliers that service the area.

Fact: Cartagena has experienced heavy urban development in recent years, particularly with the construction of new skyscrapers. As of May 2007, there were 41 high-rises under construction, including an effort to create Colombia's tallest, the Torre de la Escollera. The new high-rise, extraordinarily narrow, was expected to be completed in early 2007, and was planned to stand at 676 ft and have 58 floors. However, a construction defect has sadly led to its dismantling.

Sight Seeing in and Around Cartagena

A City Full of History, Intrigue and Mystery

Old Town - Without a doubt, Cartagena's old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town, consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a beautiful example of colonial architecture including many churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady garden patios.

The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. The project actually took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and continued pirate attacks. Only in 1796 was it finally completed, just 25 years before the Spaniards were finally expelled. Las Murallas represent an outstanding piece of military engineering and are preserved in remarkably good shape, except for a portion of the walls facing La Matuna, which were unfortunately demolished by 'progressive' city authorities in the mid-20th century. There are many unique and interesting treasures to be found just by walking around town. If you prefer, you can also choose to tour the city in a chiva (a colorful, traditional party bus) or by horse drawn carriage. For a complete guide to some of Cartagena's most popular sites and activities, please see the "Tourist Attractions" link here or above in the DC Travel Guide.

Islas del Rosario - This archipelago located approximately 22 miles (35 km) southwest of Cartagena, consists of 27 small coral islands, including some tiny islets only big enough for a single house. The archipelago is surrounded coral reefs, where the color of the sea ranges from turquoise to purple. The entire area has been decreed a national park, the Corales del Rosario. The park is currently being expanded southward to cover the Islas de San Bernardo as well.

Unfortunately, recent warm water currents have eroded the reefs around Islas del Rosario, and the diving is not as good as it once was. However, water sports are still quite popular and the two largest islands Isla Grande and Isla del Rosario, have inland lagoons and some tourist facilities. An oceanario (aquarium) has been established on the tiny island, Isla de San Martín de Pajarales. The usual way to visit the park is a one-day tour, and the cruise through the islands has become an established business. Tours depart year-round from the Muelle Turístico in Cartagena. For up to date hours of operation, pricing as well as details about the tour itself, please see the "Tourist Attractions" link here or above in the DC Travel Guide.

Playa Blanca - Playa Blanca is one of the most beautiful beaches around Cartagena. It is about 15 miles (20 km) southwest of the city, on the Island of Barú (Isla de Barú). It is part of the boat tour for the Islas del Rosario trip above, so at times the beaches are full of travelers in the early afternoon. However, if you time your trip accordingly, you can avoid crowds and have the pleasure of experiencing the beach with far less people and tourists. This beach is great for relaxing in the sun, playing on the beach, swimming and snorkeling as the coral reef is located just off the beach. There are also places to sleep and eat while visiting the area. For more information, please see the "Tourist Attractions" link here or above in the DC Travel Guide.

La Boquilla - Located just 4.5 miles (7 km) north of Cartagena is the quaint fishing village of La Boquilla. It is located at the northern tip of a narrow peninsula, bordered by the sea on one side and the Ciénaga de Tasca on the other. Here you can see locals fishing at the ciénaga (small lake or lagoon) working with their typical atarrayas (round fishing nets) in an attempt to catch fish for sale in market or dinner for the family. Atarrayas are quite common in Colombia, especially on and around the Caribbean Coast. Off the beaten path in this area is another interesting place known as El Paraíso. It is about a 5 minute walk from the bus terminal. Here you can enjoy a day on the beach sunbathing or exploring for sea shells. You can also arrange a boat trip with the locals that will take you along the narrow water channels that cut through the mangroves to the north of the village.

Scattered throughout the beach are palm-thatched shacks that operate as restaurants for travelers and locals who come out to visit from Cartagena to visit on the weekends. Fresh fish is the normal meal of the day and is usually accompanied by arroz con coco (rice prepared with coconut milk) and a side of patacones (fried plantain). Frequent city buses run to La Boquilla from India Catalina in Cartagena and the fairs are nominal at less than a dollar. The whole trip takes approximately 30 minutes to reach the beach destination.

Volcán de Lodo El Totumo - Approximately 31 miles (50 km) northeast of Cartagena exists a formation similar in appearance to a large ant pile. At almost 50 feet (15 m) tall, this structure is more than just an out of the ordinary hill. It is actually a miniature volcano that spews mud instead of molten lava.

Legend has it that the volcano once spewed lava, but the local priest saw it as the work of the devil and frequently sprinkled it with holy water. Now, all that exists is crater filled with mud. It was this mud that supposedly drown the devil and forever extinguished the fire that once flowed from the mini volcano.

The temperature of the mud is lukewarm just like bath water and the mud itself is smooth and creamy. Many travelers swear by the therapeutic properties of the mineral rich mud and treat themselves to a relaxing dip in the earthy substance. It is not unusual to find groups of people sharing in the dirty pleasures of Volcán de Lodo El Totumo! There is a lagoon within walking distance that is often used to wash off. Who needs an expensive spa when you can go volcano-dipping! More details can be found by clicking the "Tourist Attractions" link here or above in the DC Travel Guide.

There are many more exciting destinations to see in and around Cartagena. We have listed just a few here. Please refer to the DC Travel Guide for a comprehensive list of activities and site seeing opportunities in this very unique part of Colombia. Above all, try to relax and take in the vast amount of cultural heritage that exists in this region as well as the rich history of the town and its inhabitants. Costeños are revered for their party appetites and strong will to dance the night away to the Caribbean beats that abound in Cartagena!

Other Nearby Places to Visit

Barranquilla

Mompós

Parque Tyrona

Santa Marta

San Andrés / Providencia

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